Development of Bodice Pattern Design system for each individual by Computer

通过计算机开发适合每个人的紧身胸衣图案设计系统

• 批准号: 09680018
• 负责人: MASUDA Tomoe
• 金额: $ 1.22万
• 依托单位: Mie University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1997
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1997 至 1998
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-09680018/
• 关键词: shape of body curved surfaces; Gaussian Curvature; Geodesic Curvature; Mean Curvature; classification of body and convec bodice type; cnvec method; gap of length and volume; color simuration of three dimensional body and convecbodice; 密着衣服の設計; 体表

We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Therefore, the deficiency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated, On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines, And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle)In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the back trunk development and the bodice pattern of front and back were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front and back bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were calculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. Patter … More n making by the like draping system may be finished by using the drafting on the computer.On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability, curve line on development, and the three dimensional curve of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature, Geometric curvature, and Mean Curvature. If only Concentrated Gaussian Curvature(deficiency angle=2pi-theta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that isn't zero. Sum of two integrated values, Concenrated Gaussian Curvature inside a surface and Geodesic Curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. The sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and convec bodice of the two hundred and three young female was the same value (-2x2pi) . The feature of those trunk surfaces and the convec bodices surfaces were grasped as the exchange of the three curvatures, and the color simulations by the different curvatures of them were displayed. The calcultive bodice by convec method with covered the trunk would be designed on the three dimensions by the computer, without the draping. Concenrated Gaussian Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk, therefore Concenrated Geodesic Curvature of the convec bodice was large. And Mean Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk. The convec bodice was a like plane clothing. Five types of the trunk surfaces and convec bodices were classified according to principal component anaysis by correlation. Combination factors of five areas (bust, upper brest, shoulder, back, side areas) and three Lines (neckbace, armscye, waist lines) were classified. The gaps on the three dimentions of between the convec bodice and trunk surface were calculated by the volume. The gaps of bust areas were big, and the gaps of back and upper breast etc. were small. Three factor of body and convec bodice type were classified according to the volume. The curvatures of 181 points of right body and convec bodice surface, and the gaps of the 294 faces of right body and convec bodice were color displayed, making it a highly informative tool for understanding for clothing design. Less

我们要尝试通过计算机来设计每个人体型的服装图案，图案制作的核心问题是利用二维上的布料平面构造出三维上的身体曲线形状。在身体和衣服的展开图案上进行研究，它表现为身体测量线上的间隙长度，而在三维身体曲面和衣服上，它被理解为曲率（缺角）五十个年轻女性的复制品，定量地了解了背部躯干发育的间隙长度和前后胸衣图案，并通过其值掌握了六十名年轻女性的前后胸衣图案的特征。女性可以使用通过平面几何方程计算的估计间隙长度来起草，而无需通过类似的立体裁剪系统进行制作，可以使用在纸上的起草来完成。在三维体表面和凹凸船体表面上，可展开性、展开曲线以及它们的三维曲线是使用高斯曲率、几何曲率和平均曲率（如果仅集中高斯曲率）定义的。表面上任意点的角度=2pi-theta)等于0，则该表面可以说是平面，并且可展开为曲面，两个积分值（表面内的集中高斯曲率和边界曲线上的测地曲率）的总和等于 2pi 与欧拉数的乘积。每个躯干表面和凸衣身上的两个曲率之和。 203名年轻女性的值是相同的（-2x2pi），这些躯干表面和凸形紧身胸衣表面的特征被掌握为交换。三个曲率，并显示了它们的不同曲率的颜色模拟，通过计算机在三个维度上设计了凹凸法计算的紧身胸衣，而不是凹凸紧身胸衣的集中高斯曲率较小。比躯干的曲率大，因此凹形紧身胸衣的集中测地曲率和凹形紧身胸衣的平均曲率较大。凸形紧身胸衣是一种类似平面的衣服，根据五个区域（胸围、上胸、肩部、背部）的主成分分析，将五种类型的躯干表面和凸形紧身胸衣分类。 、侧部区域）和三条线（颈线、臂孔、腰部线）按体积计算凸形衣身和躯干表面之间的三个尺寸上的间隙。根据体积，对身体和凸胸衣类型的三个因素进行了分类，即右身体和凸胸衣表面的181个点的曲率以及294个面的间隙。右身和凸形紧身胸衣的颜色显示，使其成为了解服装设计的信息丰富的工具。

项目成果

Tomoe, Masuda, Haruki Imaoka: "Estimation of the Gap Lengths on the Back Trunk Surface Developed Pattern for Understanding Back Trunk Form in Clothing Design." J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn.39. 648-658 (1998)

Tomoe、Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“对后躯干表面间隙长度的估计开发了用于理解服装设计中后躯干形状的模式。”

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "後胴部体表面展開図の間隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 648-658 (1998)

Chie Masuda，Haruki Imaoka：“后躯干身体表面展开视图中间隙尺寸的预测”日本纺织产品和消费者科学学会杂志 39. 648-658 (1998)。

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "立体裁断による前胴部密着衣服原型の空隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 46-57 (1998)

Chie Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“通过立体裁剪预测前躯干紧身服装原型中的空隙尺寸”日本纺织消费者科学学会杂志 39. 46-57 (1998)。

T.Masuda, H.Imaoka: "3D Torso Surface Curvatures asit Relates to Clothing Design" Sen'i Gakkaishi. 54. 299-308 (1998)

T.Masuda、H.Imaoka：“与服装设计相关的 3D 躯干表面曲率”Seni Gakkaishi。