Development of Bodice Pattern Design system for each individual by Computer

通过计算机开发适合每个人的紧身胸衣图案设计系统

• 批准号: 07680016
• 负责人: MASUDA Tomoe
• 金额: $ 1.02万
• 依托单位: Mie University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1995
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1995 至 1996
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-07680016/
• 关键词: Design of bodice pattern; computer; an individuality; shape of body curved surfaces; gap length; Gaussian curvature; geodesic curvature; simuration of three dimensional bodice; 間隙寸法; 着装シミュレーション; 胴部体表面形状のモデル化; ガウスの曲率による曲面把握; 密着衣服原型の構造; 体表曲面形状の

We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Terefore, the defeciency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated. On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines. And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle).In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the front trunk development and the bodice pattern were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were caluculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature. If only Gaussian curvature (deficiency angle=2pi-rheta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that is'nt zero. Sum of two integrated values, Gaussian curvature inside a surface and geodesic curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. In one hundred and ten young female, the sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and bodice was the same value (-2*2pi). The feature of those trunk and the bodice surfaces was grasped as the exchange of the two curvatures, and the color simulations by the difrent curvatures of them were displayd. The bodice with coverd the trunk would be desined on the three dimensions, without the draping but by the computer. Of course, we could made their developed pattern by the computer.

我们将尝试通过计算机来设计适合每个人体型的服装图案。制版的核心问题是利用二维的布平面在三维上构造出身体的曲线形状。因此，对人体发育形态和服装的缺陷因素进行了研究。在身体和衣服的展开图案上，表现为身体测量线上的间隙长度。并在三维身体曲面和服装上，将其理解为曲率（缺角）。在五十个年轻女性复制品中，定量地了解了前躯干发育和紧身胸衣图案的间隙长度，并了解了其特征。躯干和紧身胸衣的形状是由它们的价值来把握的。六十名年轻女性的前胸衣图案可以利用平面几何方程计算出的估计间隙长度来绘制，无需立体裁剪。在三维体表面和凹壳衣身表面上，利用高斯曲率定义了它们的展开性。只要表面上任意点的高斯曲率（缺角=2pi-rheta）等于0，则该表面可以说是平面并且可展开。在曲面上，该值不为零。表面内部高斯曲率和边界曲线上测地曲率这两个积分值之和等于 2pi 与欧拉数的乘积。在一百一十名年轻女性中，每个躯干表面和紧身胸衣的两个曲率之和是相同的值（-2*2pi）。通过两种曲率的交换来掌握躯干和紧身胸衣表面的特征，并显示它们不同曲率的色彩模拟。覆盖躯干的紧身胸衣将在三个维度上设计，没有立体感，而是由计算机设计。当然，我们可以通过电脑制作他们的开发图案。

项目成果

今岡春樹,増田智恵: "裁縫の曲率的解釈と縫合の式" 日本繊維製品消費科学会. 37. 422-429 (1996)

Haruki Imaoka，Chie Masuda：“缝纫和缝合公式的曲率解释”日本纤维消费者科学协会 37. 422-429 (1996)。

Tomoe Masuda, Haruki Imaoka: "Estimation of Body Factor for Developing Trunk Surface (Part2) Comparison of Tight-Fitting Pattern of Front Bodice with Development Pattern of Front Trunk" J.Home Econ.Jpn.47. 343-355 (1996)

Tomoe Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“躯干表面发育的身体因素估计（第二部分）前衣紧身模式与前躯干发育模式的比较”J.Home Econ.Jpn.47。

Haruki Imaoka, Tomoe Masuda: "An Interpretation of Cutting and Sewing a Cloth with Respect to Curvatures and a Proposal of Sewing Equation" J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn.37. 422-429 (1996)

Haruki Imaoka、Tomoe Masuda：“根据曲率切割和缝纫布料的解释以及缝纫方程的建议”J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn.37。

Tomoe Masuda, Haruki Imaoka: "Estimation of Shoulder and Upper Chest Gap Lengths on Development Pattern of Front Trunk" J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn. 38. 99-108 (1997)

Tomoe Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“肩部和上胸部间隙长度对前躯干发育模式的估计”J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn。

増田智恵,今岡春樹: "前胴部体表面展開図の肩部・上胸部の間隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会. 38. 99-108 (1997)

Chie Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“从前躯干身体表面的发育角度预测肩膀和上胸部之间的间隙大小”日本纤维产品和消费者科学协会 38. 99-108 (1997)。