Development of bodice pattern design by 3D body surface type system based on 3D pattern curvature classification.

基于3D图案曲率分类的3D体表类型系统开发紧身胸衣图案设计。

• 批准号: 12480021
• 负责人: MASUDA Tomoe
• 金额: $ 4.29万
• 依托单位: Mie University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
• 财政年份: 2000
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 2000 至 2001
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-12480021/
• 关键词: Young men; 3D torso surfaces; 3D convex bodice surfaces; 3D tight-fitting pattern surfaces; Concentrated Gaussian, Geodesic, and Mean curvatures; Color and development simulation of curvatures; Type of torso, convex, and pattern surface; Automatic

We try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body type for young men using a computer program that we created for this purpose. In our study, we examined clothing-pattern making from the point of view of two factors : "angle" and "line length" of the 3D torso surface and the tight-fitting bodice. The central problem of the pattern-making is to create a three-dimensional body. Therefore, we investigated the deficiency factor on both a two-dimensional developed pattern on 3D bodies. On the developed pattern, we studied it as 'deficit angles', while on 3D bodies, it appeared as 'gap length' on the pattern measurement lines.At first, for a clear understanding of male 3D surface, we compared the torso shape of females (n = 203) and males (n = 101) using the Concentrated Gaussian Curvature Kc (deficit angle = 2π-θ) of the vertices on interior triangle-meshed surface and Concentrated Geodesic Curvature Kc (π-θ) on the vertices of exterior boundary lines. If Kc of an arbitrary poin … More t (vertex) on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said to be a plane and developable one. On a curved surface, Kc is not zero. The sum of two integrated values, Kc of the inside surface shape and kc on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2π and the Euler number. The sum of those two curvatures in the torso surface of each female (n=203) and of each male (n=101) was the same value (-2 × 2π). Due to this, we were able to compare the torso shapes between males and females, regardless of size. The main features of the male torso shape are the back, shoulder, and side surface, and that of the female torso shapes is the bust surface. Although the male torso has a developable surface, the main features differ considerably between each person. Therefore, it is necessary to use high level techniques and technology for male pattern-making. One method for 3D pattern-making, without the draping, is using a computer programmed with the convex method to automatically design 3D bodice patterns which would cover the male torsos (n = 150). We call that 3D bodice the 'convex hull bodices', and examined them using Kc, kc, and Mean Curvature Hc, which refers to be convex or concave surfaces. The Kc values of the convex hull bodices are smaller than those of the torsos, therefore their kc values are large. As with the Kc values, the Hc values are also smaller than those of the torsos. The 3 curvature values of the convex hull bodices are classified using the principal component analysis by correlation. In addition, the combination factors of six areas and three lines were classified. We were able to easily construct a tight-fitting bodice using a computer program to do 3D draping. The system aided us visually understand features of the surface shape through color-graded map displaying curvatures and gap values (volume).Next, we examined the features of the tight-fitting pattern (T-pattern) of females (n = 203) and males (n = 151) using the gap length and Kc values. The factors for making the T-pattern shape were found using the classing the principal component anarisis of the Kc values. Like the above 3D draping technique, drafting pattern-making using the estimated gap lengths may also be finished with aid a computer.As the result of the two examinations using the "angle" and the "line length" on both of the 3D torso surface and the tight-fitting bodice, we are able to take the automatically pattern-making for both the 3D draping and the drafting according to the types of the body shape. Less

我们尝试使用为此目的创建的计算机程序为年轻人设计每种体型的服装图案。在我们的研究中，我们从两个因素的角度审视了服装图案的制作：“角度”和“。 3D躯干表面和紧身胸衣的“线长”。打版的核心问题是创建三维身体。因此，我们研究了3D身体上的二维展开模型的缺陷因素.在开发模式上，我们研究为“缺陷角度”，而在 3D 身体上，它在图案测量线上显示为“间隙长度”。首先，为了清楚地了解男性 3D 表面，我们比较了女性的躯干形状 (n = 203)男性 (n = 101) 使用内部三角形网格表面上的顶点的集中高斯曲率 Kc（缺陷角 = 2π-θ）和集中外部边界线顶点上的测地曲率 Kc (π-θ) 如果曲面上任意点 t（顶点）的 Kc 等于 0，则可以说该曲面是平面且可展的。对于曲面，Kc 不为零，内表面形状的 Kc 和边界曲线上的 Kc 两个积分值之和等于 2π 与欧拉数的乘积。每个女性 (n=203) 和每个男性 (n=101) 躯干表面的两个曲率是相同的值 (-2 × 2π) 因此，我们能够比较男性和女性之间的躯干形状。不论尺寸，男性躯干形状的主要特征是背部、肩部和侧面，而女性躯干形状的主要特征是胸部表面。因此，男性打版需要采用高水平的技术和技术，一种无需立体裁剪的3D打版方法是使用凸法编程的计算机自动设计3D紧身衣。覆盖男性躯干的图案 (n = 150) 我们将 3D 紧身胸衣称为“凸壳紧身胸衣”，并使用 Kc、kc 和平均曲率 Hc 对它们进行检查，其中指的是凸面或凹面，凸包体的Kc值比躯干的小，因此它们的kc值也比Kc值大，Hc值也比躯干小。使用主成分分析对躯干的 3 个曲率值进行分类，此外，我们还可以轻松地构建紧身衣。紧身胸衣使用计算机程序进行 3D 立体裁剪，该系统通过显示曲率和间隙值（体积）的颜色分级图帮助我们直观地了解表面形状的特征。接下来，我们检查了紧身图案的特征（使用间隙长度和 Kc 值计算女性 (n = 203) 和男性 (n = 151) 的 T 型图案。使用主成分分类找到了形成 T 型图案形状的因素。与上述3D立体裁剪技术一样，也可以借助计算机来完成使用估计的间隙长度的制图。作为使用“角度”和“线长”的两次检查的结果。无论是3D躯干表面还是紧身衣，我们都可以根据体型类型进行3D立体裁剪和绘图的自动打版。

项目成果

Masuda, T., Imaoka, H: "Individual Differences between Torso Shapes of young women from the point of View of 3D Surface Curvatures as they Relate to Clothing Design"Jpn.Res.Assn.Text.End-Uses.. 43・3. 62-81 (2002)

增田 T.、今冈 H：“从与服装设计相关的 3D 表面曲率的角度来看，年轻女性躯干形状的个体差异”Jpn.Res.Assn.Text.End-Uses.. 43・3 .62-81 (2002)

Masuda, T., Imaoka, H: "Individual Differences between Torso Shapes of young women from the point of View of 3D Surface Curvatures as they Relate to Clothing Design"Jpn. Res. Assn. Text. End-Uses. 43・3. 62-81 (2002)

Masuda, T., Imaoka, H：“从与服装设计相关的 3D 表面曲率的角度来看，年轻女性躯干形状的个体差异”Jpn。 62-81（2002）

Tomoe Mauda, Haruki Imaoka: "Individual Differences between Torso Shapes of young women from the point of View of 3D Surface Curvatures as the Relate to Clothing Design"J. Text. End-Uses. Jpn.. 43. 204-223 (2002)

Tomoe Mauda、Haruki Imaoka：“从与服装设计相关的 3D 表面曲率的角度来看年轻女性躯干形状的个体差异”J.