Considerate Design for Personalised Fashion Products

个性化时尚产品的贴心设计

• 批准号: AH/E507964/1
• 负责人: Sandy Black
• 金额: $ 29.46万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2007
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2007 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FE507964%2F1
• 关键词: Considerate; Design; Personalised; Fashion; Products

This portfolio project will develop new fashion products - one piece knitwear and fashion accessories - which integrate the craft skills of fashion making with new technologies. It will propose new design processes which will have reduced environmental impact and consider both the end user and the enture life cycle of the product. The theoratical underpinning of the project is the identification and analysis of the design process and creation of guidlines for a 'Considerate Design' model which will be tested against theories of complexity in design.The project responds to the rapidly changing context of fashion and positions the user at the centre of the design process. It aims to produce personalised fashion products using new applications of 3D body scanning linked to rapid prototyping methods to produce customised body related forms integrated with different direct manufacturing and production processes; the direct 3D production of semafree knitwear, the manufacture of bespoke bags, and creation of body conformable seamless textile structures. The sub-projects each have a relevance to industry in either the short or longer term, contributing to the concept of mass customisation, to create viable products which are individually tailored to requirements.In bespoke fashion the design input per item is far higher then in mass produced pieces. To make this a viable option designers must learn how to structure their design processes effectively and cost their design process accurately. This project will model a design process for Considerate Design using the sub-projects as sources of data to develop guidance for the considerate design procedures. The process will be modelled in the Signposting software, developed in the Cambridge EDC, which provides an opportunity to model individual procedures and assess their cost and risk. This also provides an opportunity to assess the scope of the Signposting method outside the automotive and aerospace industry.The first sub-project works with industrially made 3D knitwear. The uptake of seamfree knitwear has to date been slow in the fashion market, despite the technology having been available for a number of years. This project demonstrates how added value can be delivered through customised fit and comfort, and will contribute to the service sector of the fashion industry by developing knitwear which is more acceptable to a wider range of consumers. The materialf focus is on revisiting wool as both a sustainable fibre, and one which is versatile in response to different temperatures and seasons. The project contributes to considerate designt hrough the interaction with the user, the shortening of the supply chain by elimination of making up processes and by providing more comfortable clothing.The second sub-project integrates the philosophy and practice of craft in manufacturing bespoke functional bags (eg backpacks and computer cases) with body scanning and rapid prototyping to produce products with an exact fit to the posture and body of an individual, using specially created components and contemporary materials for both aesthetic design and functional purpose, with potential to increase longevity of use.The third project is longer term, focusing on creating new paradigms for production of seamless textile structures which conform in shape to the body. It uses no traditional textile and fashion processes, but adapts the technologies and materials from rapid prototyping of industrial products through linked structures to create flexible surfaces. This project tests new design processes for generating form through the interface of computer and human design.The results of each sub project will be disseminated through academic journals, to industry through conferences and trade fairs, and directly to the public through editorial features in magazines, and a work in progresexhibition at an appropriate venue such as the ICA in London, the Design Museum, The Hub in Leicestershire.

该组合项目将开发新的时尚产品——连体针织品和时尚配饰——将时装制作工艺与新技术相结合。它将提出新的设计流程，减少对环境的影响，并考虑最终用户和产品的整个生命周期。该项目的理论基础是对设计过程的识别和分析，以及为“周到设计”模型创建指南，该模型将根据设计复杂性理论进行测试。该项目响应了快速变化的时尚背景，并将用户处于设计过程的中心。它的目标是利用3D人体扫描的新应用与快速原型方法相结合来生产个性化时尚产品，以生产与不同直接制造和生产流程相结合的定制身体相关形式； semafree 针织品的直接 3D 生产、定制包袋的制造以及身体贴合的无缝纺织结构的创建。每个子项目都与短期或长期的行业相关，有助于大规模定制的概念，创造出根据需求单独定制的可行产品。在定制时尚中，每件产品的设计投入远远高于定制时尚。批量生产的件。为了使其成为可行的选择，设计人员必须学习如何有效地构建其设计流程并准确地计算其设计流程的成本。该项目将使用子项目作为数据源来对周到设计的设计过程进行建模，以制定周到设计程序的指南。该流程将在剑桥 EDC 开发的路标软件中进行建模，该软件提供了对单个程序进行建模并评估其成本和风险的机会。这也提供了一个评估路标方法在汽车和航空航天行业之外的范围的机会。第一个子项目适用于工业制造的 3D 针织品。尽管无缝针织技术已经问世多年，但迄今为止，它在时尚市场的应用进展缓慢。该项目展示了如何通过定制合身性和舒适性来提供附加值，并将通过开发更容易被更广泛消费者接受的针织品为时尚行业的服务部门做出贡献。材料的重点是重新审视羊毛，它既是一种可持续纤维，又是一种能适应不同温度和季节的多功能纤维。该项目通过与用户的互动、通过消除化妆流程缩短供应链以及提供更舒适的服装来实现周到的设计。第二个子项目整合了制造定制功能包的工艺理念和实践（例如背包和电脑机箱），通过身体扫描和快速原型制作，生产出完全适合个人姿势和身体的产品，使用专门制造的组件和现代材料，实现美观设计和功能目的，并有可能延长使用寿命.第三个该项目是一个长期项目，重点是创造新的范例来生产形状符合身体的无缝纺织结构。它不使用传统的纺织和时尚工艺，而是通过链接结构采用工业产品快速原型制作的技术和材料来创建灵活的表面。该项目测试了通过计算机和人类设计界面生成形式的新设计流程。每个子项目的结果将通过学术期刊传播，通过会议和贸易展览会向行业传播，并通过杂志的编辑专题直接向公众传播，以及在伦敦 ICA、设计博物馆、莱斯特郡 The Hub 等适当场所举办的正在进行中的展览。

项目成果

Considerate Design: supporting designers to create sustainable and personalised clothing

贴心设计：支持设计师打造可持续且个性化的服装

• 作者: Sandy Black (Author)

Process Simulation to Make Personalisation Economically Viable.

流程模拟使个性化经济可行。

• 发表时间: 2008
• 期刊: Proceedings of TMCE 2008
• 作者: Eckert CM

Handbook of Research in Mass Customization and Personalization - (In 2 Volumes)

大规模定制和个性化研究手册 -（共 2 卷）

• DOI: 10.1142/9789814280280_0041
• 发表时间: 2009
• 作者: Black S