Future Fashion Landscapes: Fostering biodiversity through collaborations between farmers, designers, and processors of native and rare breed wool

未来时尚景观：通过农民、设计师和本地及稀有品种羊毛加工商之间的合作促进生物多样性

• 批准号: AH/Z505365/1
• 负责人: Sandy Black
• 金额: $ 12.77万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2024
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2024 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FZ505365%2F1
• 关键词: Future; Fashion; Landscapes; Fostering; biodiversity

Fashion and agriculture are among the industries with the highestclimate footprint - through over-consumption of finite resources,aggregated CO2 emissions, widespread ecosystem pollution andresulting extensive biodiversity loss. There is enormous potential forimpact through improved practice and a major paradigm shift in bothsectors. This design-led R&D partnership between fashion researchersfrom UAL's Centre for Sustainable Fashion and the South East England(SEE) and South West England (SWE) Fibresheds foregrounds thepotential of fostering diverse, healthy ecosystems and increasedbiodiversity alongside supporting sustainable rural economies andbio-regional textiles networks. The partnership builds on the regionallinks created during the research team's previous project 'Beyond NetZero Goals: Regenerative fashion design for micro-circular ruralecosystems' funded in the DEP pilot scheme (2021-22).Within the overarching biodiversity theme, this project focuses on thefibre production and biodiversity enhancement potential of farmsadopting regenerative principles, while operating landscape-specificgrazing and restoration programmes with native and rare breed sheep.Sustaining thriving populations of native breeds is among the keybiodiversity indicators of the UK Government Biodiversity Strategy forEngland (Indicator 12a: Animal genetic resources, DEFRA 2023(https://www.gov.uk/government/statistics/england-biodiversity*indicators)).The vision of the SEE and SWE affiliates of the international Fibershedmovement is to provide viable solutions for the shift from long,opaque fashion and textiles supply chains, towards short, transparentbio-regional fibre and fashion supply networks with potential forscaling through replication. The organisations' current priority, basedon extensive stakeholder consultation during 2020-22, is to facilitatebetter understanding between farmers and designers to improveavailability and uptake of high-quality local fibre. The focus is on woolwhich, unlike plant fibres, is still produced in the UK in abundance yetits potential for application in apparel production is insufficientlyunderstood. As a result, this renewable fibre source is undervalued,underutilised and often discarded. This project will enhance visibilityand comprehension of UK-sourced native and rare breed wool, thusopening up new opportunities for valuable income streams, withbenefits for rural economies plus landscape conservation andbiodiversity enhancement.The partnership will test methods of collaboration and design researchthat aim to:Advance the understanding of properties and biodiversity benefits of bio-regional native and rare breed wool production in the SEE and SWE and beyond, through the pilot implementation of SEE & SWE Fibresheds' new Farming Fashion Toolkit.Develop experimental design prototypes that embody the experience of 'wearing the landscape', providing a tangible proofof-concept that can facilitate access to further R&D and funding for farmers and designers.Facilitate future innovation and collaboration opportunities forfarmers, designers, and processors of fibre and textiles throughimproved mutual understanding of requirements and productioncycles when working with local landscapes, animals and naturalrhythms.The project will support the SEE and SWE Fibresheds' mission byintroducing skills in design, making and fashion designentrepreneurship, building capacity for extensive experimentation totest innovative possibilities for regenerative fashion practice withinrural ecosystems and urban design centres. LCF's recent move to theEast Bank Campus offers exceptional opportunities for publicengagement and mobilising the thriving East London designcommunity for this purpose.

时尚和农业是气候足迹最严重的行业之一——过度消耗有限资源、二氧化碳排放总量、广泛的生态系统污染以及导致生物多样性广泛丧失。通过改进实践和重大范式转变，这两个行业具有巨大的影响潜力。 UAL 可持续时尚中心的时尚研究人员与英格兰东南部 (SEE) 和英格兰西南部 (SWE) Fibresheds 的时尚研究人员之间以设计为主导的研发合作伙伴关系，在支持可持续农村经济和生物区域纺织网络的同时，凸显了培育多样化、健康生态系统和增加生物多样性的潜力。该合作伙伴关系建立在研究团队上一个项目“超越 NetZero 目标：微循环农村生态系统的再生时尚设计”项目期间创建的区域联系之上，该项目由 DEP 试点计划（2021-22）资助。在生物多样性的总体主题中，该项目重点关注纤维采用再生原理，同时对本土和稀有品种羊实施针对特定景观的放牧和恢复计划，提高农场的生产和生物多样性潜力。维持繁荣本地品种种群是英国政府英格兰生物多样性战略的关键生物多样性指标之一（指标 12a：动物遗传资源，DEFRA 2023(https://www.gov.uk/government/statistics/england-biodiversity*indicators)）。国际 Fibershedmovement 运动的 SEE 和 SWE 附属机构的愿景是为从长期、不透明的时装和纺织品供应的转变提供可行的解决方案链，走向短、透明的生物区域纤维和时尚供应网络，并具有通过复制扩大规模的潜力。基于 2020-22 年期间广泛的利益相关者咨询，该组织当前的首要任务是促进农民和设计师之间更好的理解，以提高优质当地纤维的可用性和采用率。重点是羊毛，与植物纤维不同，英国仍然大量生产羊毛，但其在服装生产中的应用潜力尚未得到充分了解。因此，这种可再生纤维来源的价值被低估、未得到充分利用并且经常被丢弃。该项目将提高对英国本土和稀有品种羊毛的知名度和理解，从而为宝贵的收入流开辟新的机会，为农村经济以及景观保护和生物多样性增强带来好处。该伙伴关系将测试合作和设计研究的方法，旨在：通过试点实施 SEE & SWE Fibresheds 的新农业时尚工具包，了解 SEE 和 SWE 及其他地区生物区域本地和稀有品种羊毛生产的特性和生物多样性效益。实验设计原型体现了“佩戴景观”的体验，提供了切实的概念验证，可以促进农民和设计师获得进一步的研发和资金。为农民、设计师以及纤维和纺织品加工商提供未来的创新和合作机会通过在与当地景观、动物和自然节奏合作时增进对要求和生产周期的相互理解。该项目将通过引入设计、制作和时尚技能来支持 SEE 和 SWE Fibresheds 的使命设计创业精神，建设广泛实验的能力，以测试农村生态系统和城市设计中心内再生时尚实践的创新可能性。 LCF 最近迁往东岸校区，为公众参与和为此目的动员繁荣的东伦敦设计社区提供了绝佳的机会。