Rethinking Fashion Design Entrepreneurship: Fostering Sustainable Practices

反思时装设计创业精神：促进可持续实践

• 批准号: AH/R006768/1
• 负责人: Sandy Black
• 金额: $ 57.55万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2018
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2018 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FR006768%2F1
• 关键词: Rethinking; Fashion; Design; Entrepreneurship; Fostering

The UK is known for its successful creative industries and its fashion designers are widely acknowledged as creative influencers on the world stage. The UK's designer fashion sector, largely made up of micro and small enterprises (MSEs), constitutes a globally recognised creative engine, effectively acting as R&D for the wider fashion industry. Design-led fashion enterprises, whilst often struggling financially themselves, provide pioneering alternative visions of prosperity in business. This project investigates the role of creative entrepreneurship and design in fashion MSEs as a potential driver for change, providing a valuable lens through which to examine the future for a sustainable fashion industry.A multi-disciplinary research team will work directly with a range of design-led fashion MSEs as co-producers of the research. The fashion designer-entrepreneur, and leaders in MSE teams, will be the focus of analysis. The research will explore sustainability as a creative endeavour, examining four key areas: design and operations; business networks and ecosystems; working practices; entrepreneurship and business models. This will lead to new knowledge and understanding of the internal operations and external context within which these fashion MSEs operate. This knowledge will be applied to establish and support new sustainable models of business development, repositioning designer fashion MSEs as major contributors to the UK's creative and sustainable economy, and ultimately informing future UK policy for the creative industries.The research will analyse existing and novel business models and practices that foster sustainable prosperity, a concept aiming to balance environmental, social, cultural and economic considerations. We will identify barriers and points of intervention in order to develop alternative business support mechanisms for sustainability to inform fashion businesses at both small and larger scales. To meet this complex challenge, the academic team is drawn from three leading research centres and universities, whose complementary academic expertise will provide a novel cross-disciplinary approach to research in fashion innovation and sustainable prosperity. Led by London College of Fashion (LCF) at University of the Arts London (UAL), the project is a collaboration between UAL's Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF), Middlesex University's (MU) Centre for Enterprise and Economic Development Research (CEEDR) and the Open University's (OU) Department of Design. CEEDR is a key partner in Surrey University's Centre for Understanding of Sustainable Prosperity (CUSP). To maximize the impact of the project directly on the fashion sector, the research team will work closely with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE), a fashion business incubator based at LCF (est. 2003); the British Fashion Council (BFC), the UK industry body responsible for promoting international sales of designer fashion; and the Ethical Fashion Forum (est. 2005), an alternative sourcing platform for international fashion MSEs working with sustainability. The research team will also work with a group of 20 designer fashion MSEs who want to engage with sustainability practices. Four key project partners will provide current examples of different business models incorporating sustainability: Unmade, Christopher Raeburn, Martine Jarlgaard and RizBoardshorts. These four MSE partners will engage with the research team in knowledge exchange and evaluation throughout the entire project. Outputs will include: case studies, academic journal articles, key findings report, and policy briefing note. In addition, a business support for sustainability 'toolkit' will provide new guidance for both emerging and established business support and incubator organisations (eg. CFE, BFC, Fashion in Leeds initiative) to foster more sustainable fashion practices.

英国以其成功的创意产业而闻名，其时装设计师在世界舞台上被广泛认为是创意影响者。英国的设计师时装领域主要由微型和小型企业（MSE）组成，构成了全球知名的创意引擎，有效地充当了更广泛的时尚行业的研发。以设计为主导的时尚企业，尽管经常在财务上挣扎，但却为商业繁荣提供了开创性的替代视野。该项目调查了创造性企业家精神和设计在时尚MSE中的作用，作为变革的潜在驱动力，提供了有价值的镜头，可以通过该镜头检查可持续时尚行业的未来。一个多学科的研究团队将直接与一系列设计合作领导的时尚MSE作为研究的联合制作者。时装设计师 - 企业家和MSE团队的领导者将成为分析的重点。这项研究将探索可持续性，作为一项创造性的努力，研究了四个关键领域：设计和运营；业务网络和生态系统；工作实践；企业家和商业模式。这将导致对这些时尚MSE运行的内部操作和外部环境的新知识和理解。这些知识将用于建立和支持新的业务发展可持续模型，重新定位设计师时尚MSE作为英国创造性和可持续经济的主要贡献者，并最终为创意行业的未来英国政策提供信息。该研究将分析现有和新颖的业务促进可持续繁荣的模型和实践，旨在平衡环境，社会，文化和经济考虑因素。我们将确定障碍和干预点，以开发可持续性的替代业务支持机制，以告知小规模和大规模的时尚企业。为了应对这一复杂的挑战，学术团队来自三个领先的研究中心和大学，他们的补充学术专业知识将为时尚创新和可持续繁荣的研究提供一种新颖的跨学科方法。该项目由伦敦艺术大学（UAL）的伦敦时装学院（LCF）领导，是UAL可持续时尚中心（CSF），米德尔塞克斯大学（MU）企业与经济发展中心（CEEDR）和开放大学（OU）设计系。 CEEDR是萨里大学对可持续繁荣理解中心（CUSP）的关键合作伙伴。为了最大程度地发挥项目对时尚行业的影响，研究团队将与时尚企业中心（CFE）紧密合作，这是一家位于LCF的时尚业务孵化器（Est。2003）；英国时装委员会（BFC），英国行业机构，负责促进国际设计师时装的销售；以及道德时尚论坛（Est。2005），这是一个与可持续性合作的国际时尚MSE的替代采购平台。研究团队还将与希望参与可持续性实践的20名设计师时尚女士组成的小组合作。四个关键项目合作伙伴将提供包括可持续性的不同业务模型的当前例子：未成年人，克里斯托弗·雷伯恩，马丁·贾尔加德和瑞兹董事会。这四个MSE合作伙伴将在整个项目中与研究团队进行知识交流和评估。 产出将包括：案例研究，学术期刊文章，关键调查结果报告和政策简报。此外，对可持续性“工具包”的业务支持将为新兴和既定的业务支持和孵化器组织（例如CFE，BFC，利兹时尚计划）提供新的指导，以促进更可持续的时尚实践。

项目成果

Advancing the circular economy through dynamic capabilities and extended customer engagement: Insights from small sustainable fashion enterprises in the UK

通过动态能力和扩大客户参与推进循环经济：英国小型可持续时尚企业的见解

• DOI: 10.1002/bse.2999
• 发表时间: 2022
• 期刊: Business Strategy and the Environment
• 影响因子: 13.4
• 作者: Elf P

Fostering Sustainable Practices: The Case of Micro & Small Designer Fashion Enterprises

促进可持续实践：微观案例

• 发表时间: 2021
• 作者: Black S

The role of networks in supporting micro- and small-sized sustainable fashion businesses

网络在支持微型和小型可持续时尚企业中的作用

• DOI: 10.1080/15487733.2022.2097772
• 发表时间: 2022
• 期刊: Science, Practice and Policy
• 作者: Eckert C

Accelerating Sustainability in Fashion, Clothing and Textiles

加速时尚、服装和纺织品的可持续发展

• DOI: 10.4324/9781003272878-12
• 发表时间: 2023
• 作者: Black S

Fashion as Sustainability in Action

时尚作为可持续发展的实际行动

• 发表时间: 2021
• 作者: Centre For Sustainable Fashion UAL