Couture and the Postcolonial Lens

时装与后殖民视角

• 批准号: 2597256
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: University of Warwick
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Studentship
• 财政年份: 2021
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2021 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2597256
• 关键词: Couture; Postcolonial; Lens

My doctoral project will explore the fraught history and colonial biases that have created an enduringhierarchy between European and South Asian high fashion. European haute couture - a legally-protectedterm describing exclusive, hand-made garments - is held as the pinnacle of global clothing production,while the couture-level output of subcontinental designers is designated as 'ethnic' costume. In order tointerrogate and challenge this construct, I will conduct the first comparative study of couture garmentsfrom Europe and India. My project will develop three case-studies (detailed above) to construct acomplete analysis of colonization's historical and present role in creating the couture/costume divide.This approach combines object-based study with a close reading of corresponding textual andphotographic records. Each garment implicates cultural, geographic, and political contexts of periodscrucial to understanding the couture/ethnic costume hierarchy. I will use the case studies' material andcomparative analysis to develop a historical, cultural, and critical approach to couture produced in bothregions that pays attention to the interplay between material culture, transnational circuits of creationand consumption, as well as the role of dress in telegraphing colonial power.

我的博士项目将探索富有的历史和殖民偏见，这些历史和殖民地偏见在欧洲和南亚高级时尚之间产生了持久的治疗。欧洲高级时装 - 一种合法保护的术语，描述了独家手工制作的服装 - 被视为全球服装生产的顶峰，而次大陆设计师的高级时装级产量被指定为“种族”服装。为了使Interrogate和挑战这种结构，我将对欧洲和印度的高级服装进行首次比较研究。我的项目将开发三个案例研究（上面详细介绍），以构建对殖民化的历史和当前作用在创建时装/服装鸿沟中的作用。这种方法将基于对象的研究与对相应的文本和谱记录的仔细阅读结合在一起。每件服装都暗示了至关重要的时期文化，地理和政治背景，以了解时装/族裔服装等级制度。我将使用案例研究的材料和比较分析来开发一种历史，文化和关键的方法，用于在这两个区域中产生的高级时装方法，这些方法都注意了材料文化，创造和消费的跨国回路之间的相互作用，以及着装在殖民力量电报中的作用。