Forming of single and steep waves in uni-directioned wave trains and their properties

单向波列中单波和陡波的形成及其特性

• 批准号: 06650559
• 负责人: YASUDA Takashi
• 金额: $ 1.28万
• 依托单位: Gifu University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1994
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1994 至 1995
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-06650559/
• 关键词: Freak wave; Extreme wave; Nonlinear interaction; Breaking wave; Waveheight distribution; Forced modes; Rayleigh distribution; 深海波; Weibull分布

Third order resonant interaction was shown to cause single and steep waves such as freak waves in uni-directional wave trains, by solving the hydrodynamic equations of irrotational flow for nonlinear waves with various spectra corresponding to swell from wind waves and by analyzing the observed wave data in sea area around Japan. The achievements are as follows :・Forced high-wave number modes exicited by the third order resonant and nonresonant interactions increase the occurrence probability of extremely high waves leading to freak waves. However, wave breaking reduces the nonlinear effects amplifying wave-height and fits the waveheight distribution to the Rayleigh distribution. As a result, Edgeworth-Rayleigh distribution was suggested as the waveheight distribution applicable to waves suffering the third order nonlinear interaction and breaking effects.・Analysis of wave data obtained off Yura fishery harbor facing the Japan sea made clear that giant freak waves of which waveheights exceed two times of H_<1/3> and further 10m are caused by nonlinear wave-wave interactions under strong but uniform winds in winter. Further, they showed that the occurrence probability is almost twice that predicted by the Reyleigh distribution.・Temporal and spatial surface profiles of the giant freak waves can be expressed approximately by using the space-time correlation function derived from the directional spectra.

表明三阶谐振剂通过单向波列中引起单向波和陡峭的波浪，这是通过非线性流动流动流动性的流动动力学的，多种光谱，以及与波浪的膨胀相对应的各种光谱，以及观察到的波浪数据波数据波数据波周围的海上波浪数据日本的成就如下：the the的高波数模式和非谐波增加了导致波浪波的极限的发生概率将波的分布适用于射线分布。在冬季，他们表明，通过使用定向特殊的时空相关函数，雷利分布的概率几乎是两倍。

项目成果

安田孝志: "不規則波のカオス的生成とその特性について" 土木学会論文集. No.533 II-34. 181-192 (1996)

Takashi Yasuda：“关于不规则波的混沌生成及其特征”，日本土木工程师学会会议记录第 533 II-34 号（1996 年）。

安田孝志: "日本海における巨大Freak wave出現時の気象・海象特性と発生原因" 海岸工学論文集. 41. 36-40 (1994)

安田隆：《日本海巨大怪浪的气象和海洋学特征及发生原因》海岸工程学报41. 36-40（1994）。

安田孝志: "冬期季節風下の巨大Freak waveの時間・空間波形特性" 海岸工学論文集. 42. 251-255 (1995)

Takashi Yasuda：“冬季季风中巨型异常波的时空波形特征”海岸工程杂志 42. 251-255 (1995)。

T.Yasuda and N.Mori: "Chaotic generation and characteristics of random waves" Jour.of Hydraulic, Coastal and Environmental Eng.No.515/II-34. 181-192 (1996)

T.Yasuda 和 N.Mori：“随机波的混沌生成和特征”Jour.of水利、海岸和环境工程杂志No.515/II-34。

T.Yasuda, S.Nakayam and T.Miyata: "Population distributions of the observed waves accompanying giant freak waves and mechanism generating them" Proc.Coastal Eng.Vol.42. 256-260 (1995)

T.Yasuda、S.Nakayam 和 T.Miyata：“观测到的伴随巨大异常波的波浪的总体分布以及产生它们的机制”Proc.Coastal Eng.Vol.42。