Bio-Couture - growing bacterial-cellulose for use in clothing

Bio-Couture - 种植用于服装的细菌纤维素

• 批准号: AH/D504015/1
• 负责人: Suzanne Lee
• 金额: $ 7.69万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2006
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2006 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FD504015%2F1
• 关键词: Bio; Couture; growing; bacterial; cellulose

Bio-Couture is an innovative project to grow a material for fashion. It unites fashion/textile design with bio/nanotechnologies. The research will use harmless bacteria to produce, spin and simultaneously shape pure cellulose fibres into a material. A series of design and scientific tests will establish to what extent the material handles, drapes, prints, dyes, sews etc. and how it performs when worn on the body. A time-lapse film will be created to show the growth process and a sample fashion collection of 6 garments will be created from the grown bacterial-cellulose to explore the material's qualities and suitability for clothing. The finished garments and film will be exhibited to the public. A key driver of contemporary textile innovation for fashion is the need to find new sustainable fibres and production techniques that contribute towards biodegradable garments and close the cycle of production, disposal and reuse. Bio/nanotechnologies are also at the forefront of new textile developments that seek to offer the customer added value through performance finishes. Many of today's textiles are made from plant-based forms of cellulose such as cotton, hemp, wood or manmade derivatives. Bacterial or microbial-cellulose however, is produced when bacteria feed on a sugar solution - it is entirely sustainable and biodegradable. Bacterial-cellulose is commercially reduced for a variety of uses and industries; in Indonesia they flavour it with coconut water and eat as a sweet, while in Japan Sony compress it to form a super-sensitive hi-fi speaker membrane. Bio-Couture is a speculative, design-led investigation to determine whether bacterial-cellulose might be of value to apparel. Over the project's duration collaboration between designer, scientist and supporting research assistant will test the material qualities through on going scientific and creative experiments. While much is understood about the material already, this research will produce new knowledge that explores bacterial-cellulose in a new context: fashion/textiles. Bio-Couture seeks to discover in what ways the material qualities dictate its application to fashion design - to what extent does it limit or suggest specific design features? For what type of garment is it best suited -delicates? outerwear? Bio-Couture is a timely project that fits into a wider field of research that is currently exploring biotechnology techniques to manufacture living materials for art and design. Unlike other contemporary research however, which is culturing human tissue for consumer products, Bio-Couture is entirely vegetable and therefore not subject to the same ethical concerns. Using fashion as a vehicle, the creative potential of technological and scientific collaboration is revealed in an artistic design context. It is anticipated that the innovative nature of the project will engage with fields as diverse as art, fashion, textiles, materials science, bio and nanotechnology. The research findings will be shared with academia/industry at the biennial international Textile conference; Avantex 2007. The research will culminate with the grown garments being exhibited along with a time-lapse film illustrating bacteria literally spinning the 'cloth'. This would be shown in venues that reach the widest possible audiences, firstly during London Fashion Week, an event that receives wide interactional media coverage and secondly, cultural venues that communicate aspects of art and science. The Institute of Contemporary Art in London have confirmed that they want to host the exhibition in 2007 along with a public talks programme and the Science Museum in London have also expressed an interest which is currently being pursued.

Bio-couture是一个创新的项目，旨在增长时尚材料。它将时尚/纺织品设计与生物/纳米技术结合在一起。该研究将使用无害的细菌生产，旋转和同时将纯纤维素纤维塑造成一种材料。一系列的设计和科学测试将在材料处理，窗帘，印刷品，染料，缝制等的程度上确定其磨损时的性能。将制作一部延时胶片来展示增长过程，并将通过种植的细菌纤维素创建6种服装的样本时尚集合，以探索材料的品质和适合服装的特质。完成的服装和电影将展出公众。当代纺织品创新的主要驱动力是需要寻找新的可持续纤维和生产技术，这些技术和生产技术有助于可生物降解的服装并关闭生产，处置和再利用的周期。生物/纳米技术也处于新的纺织开发项目的最前沿，这些开发项目试图通过性能完成为客户提供附加值。当今的许多纺织品都是由植物形式的纤维素形式制成的，例如棉，大麻，木材或人造衍生物。然而，当细菌以糖溶液为食时会产生细菌或微生物 - 纤维素 - 它完全可持续且可生物降解。用于各种用途和行业的细菌纤维素可在商业上降低；在印度尼西亚，他们用椰子水将其调味，并作为甜食，而在日本，索尼压缩它以形成一种超敏感的高保真扬声器膜。生物饮食是一项针对设计的投机性研究，可确定细菌纤维素是否可能对服装有价值。在项目之间，设计师，科学家和支持研究助理之间的持续时间将通过进行科学和创意实验来测试物质品质。尽管已经对材料已经了解了很多，但这项研究将产生新的知识，在新背景下探索细菌纤维素：时尚/纺织品。 Bio -firure试图发现物质质量在哪种方式决定其在时装设计中的应用 - 它在多大程度上限制或建议特定的设计功能？对于哪种类型的服装，它最适合使用？外套？ Bio-couture是一个及时的项目，它适合更广泛的研究领域，该领域目前正在探索生物技术技术，以制造艺术和设计的生活材料。但是，与其他当代研究正在为消费产品培养人体组织，生物饮食完全是蔬菜，因此不受相同的道德关注。在艺术设计的背景下，以时尚作为工具，技术和科学合作的创造潜力得到了揭示。可以预料，该项目的创新性质将与艺术，时尚，纺织品，材料科学，生物和纳米技术等多样化的领域进行互动。研究结果将在双年展国际纺织会议上​​与学术界/行业共享； Avantex 2007。这项研究将以展出的成年服装以及一部延时胶片的表现为最终，以说明细菌实际上旋转了“布”。这将在吸引最广泛的观众的场所中显示，首先是在伦敦时装周期间，该活动将获得广泛的互动媒体报道，其次是传达艺术和科学方面的文化场所。伦敦的当代艺术研究所已经确认，他们希望在2007年举办展览，并与公众会谈计划，伦敦的科学博物馆也表达了目前正在追求的兴趣。