Cottons Hidden Voices: Stories from the makers of your clothes

棉花隐藏的声音：来自服装制造商的故事

• 批准号: AH/W006936/1
• 负责人: Mark Sumner
• 金额: $ 16.56万
• 依托单位: University of Leeds
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2021
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2021 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FW006936%2F1
• 关键词: Cottons; Hidden; Voices; Stories; makers

The UK fashion sector is worth in excess of £26 billion, it employs at least 800,000 people and is a major contributor to the UK's reputation for a creativity and innovation. However, production of UK fashion is highly dependent on global supply chains where workers in the Global South in countries such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, India and Sri Lanka provide the labour to grow cotton, spin yarns, knit and weave fabrics and ultimately make the garments we wear in the UK.These supply chains have been associated with major ethical issues which can include various forms of discrimination, poor pay, bonded labour, child labour and dangerous working conditions. These issues are now best described by the umbrella term 'modern slavery'. But the fashion industry also provides employment for over 250 million workers, and for many workers fashion supply chains offer an opportunity to alleviate poverty, access education and develop social mobility for themselves and for their families. Therefore, the challenge for designers, brands, policy makers and the UN SDGs is how to eradicate issues of modern slavery, while retaining the positive aspects that fashion can provide for workers in the Global South.Eradicating modern slavery and creating sustainable supply chains is vital for the future of the UK fashion industry and for the planet. However, too often policies, initiatives and discussions aiming to improve sustainability and address modern slavery issues fail to understand and accommodate the complexity of these supply chains, the diversity of actors and the voices of workers involved in the journey of fashion from cotton farms to UK wardrobes.This project will describe this journey and its complexity using the voices of workers in the supply chain. Through collaboration with workers in India, it will create visual, audio, written and digital content that brings their hidden voices to stakeholders in the UK. By collapsing the cultural and geographical divides between producers and consumers, this content aims to facilitate dialogue about the connections between the clothes consumers in the UK wear and the workers who make them. These human stories will help designers, consumers, educators and policy makers improve their knowledge and awareness of the global fashion industry.The innovative content will be co-designed and delivered through collaboration with Leeds Museums and Galleries, the largest local authority-run museum service in England with one of the most significant multidisciplinary collections in the UK. This will be supported by the Public Engagement and Arts Educational Engagement Teams at the University of Leeds and the AHRC funded Future Fashion Factory. The project also supports the University's commitment to public engagement with its research and to the UN SDG accord.This Follow-On project builds on a previously funded AHRC project 'Impact of Covid-19 on management to eradicate modern slavery from global supply chains' (RC Grant reference: AH/V009206/1). This project, a collaboration between the University of Leeds and the Goa Institute of Management, India, explored the impact of the Covid on modern slavery risks for workers in fashion supply chains from the perspective of UK consumption and Indian production. The research project highlighted how solutions for sustainable fashion must reflect the priorities of the supply chain, and how established Global North views of fashion have ignored Global South perspectives. This has implication for the delivery of the UN SDGs, particularly for following SDGs which are the focus for this Follow-On project:- SDG 5 Gender Equality; recognising the majority of workers in fashion are female,- SDG 8 Decent Work and Economic Growth; the fashion industry is a route for poverty alleviation and GDP growth in the Global South,- SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production; understanding the link between fashion consumption in the UK and production in India.

英国时装部门的价值超过260亿英镑，至少雇用80万名员工，这是英国以创造力和创新的声誉的主要贡献者。但是，英国时尚的生产高度依赖于全球供应链，孟加拉国，柬埔寨，中国，印度和斯里兰卡等国家的全球南部工人提供了种植棉花，旋转纱线，编织和编织面料的劳动，并最终使我们在英国穿着服装。这些供应连锁店与主要的道德问题有关，这些问题可能包括各种形式的歧视，薪水差，债务劳动，童工和危险的工作条件。现在，这些问题用“现代奴隶制”的伞术最好地描述。但是，时尚界还为超过2.5亿工人提供了就业机会，许多工人的时装供应连锁店为减轻贫困，获得教育和发展社会流动性提供了机会。因此，对设计师，品牌，政策制定者和联合国可持续发展目标的挑战是如何将现代奴隶制的放射性问题放射，同时保留时尚可以为全球南方工人提供的积极方面。改装现代奴隶制和创建可持续的供应链对于英国时尚界和地球的未来至关重要。但是，通常政策，倡议和讨论旨在提高可持续性并解决现代奴隶制问题，无法理解和适应这些供应链的复杂性，演员的多样性以及参与从棉花农场到英国衣柜旅程的工人的声音。这个项目将使用供应链中的工人的声音来描述这一旅程和其复杂性。通过与印度工人的合作，它将创建视觉，音频，书面和数字内容，将其隐藏的声音带给英国利益相关者。通过崩溃，生产者和消费者之间的文化和地理区域，该内容旨在促进有关英国消费者服装与制造工人的工人之间联系的对话。这些人类的故事将帮助设计师，消费者，教育者和政策制定者提高他们对全球时装行业的知识和认识。创新内容将通过与英国最大的地方政府博物馆服务的利兹博物馆和画廊的合作共同设计，并通过与英国最大的重要多学科集团之一合作进行交付。这将得到利兹大学和AHRC资助的未来时尚工厂的公众参与和艺术教育参与团队的支持。该项目还支持大学对公众参与其研究的承诺和对UN SDG的承诺。此后续项目以前资助的AHRC项目为“ Covid-19对管理对全球供应链的放射性现代奴隶制的影响”（RC赠款参考：AH/V009206/1）的基础上。该项目是利兹大学与印度果阿管理学院之间的合作，从英国的消费和印度生产的角度来看，共证对现代奴隶制风险对工人在时尚供应链中的影响。该研究项目强调了可持续时尚的解决方案如何反映供应链的优先事项，以及在全球北方视图中如何忽略了全球南方的观点。这对交付联合国可持续发展目标有影响，特别是遵循可持续发展目标，这是该后续项目的重点：-SDG 5性别平等；认识到时尚的大多数工人是女性，-SDG 8体面的工作和经济增长；时装业是全球南方贫困和GDP增长的途径，-SDG 12：负责任的消费和生产；了解英国时尚消费与印度生产之间的联系。