Bioinspired textiles: an investigation into biomimetic principles and their application to sustainable textile design and making processes

仿生纺织品：仿生原理及其在可持续纺织品设计和制造过程中的应用的研究

基本信息

批准号：
AH/T006412/1
负责人：
Veronika Kapsali
金额：
$ 25.6万
依托单位：
University of the Arts London
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Fellowship
财政年份：
2020
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2020 至无数据
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FT006412%2F1
关键词：
Bioinspired textiles investigation into biomimetic

项目摘要

A recent report published by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation on 'a new textiles economy' (2017) highlights current challenges for the fashion and textile sectors pertaining to global production and consumption practices that are a threat to the environment and no longer sustainable. Since the year 2000, global clothing production has more than doubled: approximately 2720 litres of water are used to make the ubiquitous t-shirt; the average garment is worn just four times in its lifetime; while 95% of clothing could potentially be recycled in some form. Practical approaches to the design and production of sustainable textiles within a circular economy are increasingly called for. In response to this imperative, the proposed research seeks to introduce practice-led engagement in biomimetic principles and their potential in textile and apparel contexts. The PI will build upon her doctoral research and design practice, which pioneered a novel, interdisciplinary approach to textile design and construction by transferring mechanisms and functionalities from biology into the textile design process. The overall intention is to establish an interdisciplinary approach to textile design and production within a circular design economy by drawing together biomimetic principles, textile and materials science to advance sustainable state-of-the-art (SoA) methods. Preliminary research identifies the lack of corresponding information between professional design and biology disciplines (Kapsali, PhD 2009). The PI will therefore address cultural and conceptual barriers between these realms by drawing upon a known framework pioneered by Naleway et al. (2015) referred to as 'Biological Structural Design Elements' (BSDEs). BSDEs provide streamlined information on the nature of mechanisms and behaviours presented in various biological materials (including, for example, their toughness and strength) to inform the design and development of composite materials for materials science communities. By adapting the Naleway et al. model, the PI will create a more relevant biomimetic framework specifically for textile design communities. The advantage of the original BSDE system is that it uses visual rather than pure mathematical language, an approach that is accessible to creative communities, to convey SoA structural information on the mechanical and behavioural aspects of biological materials. The PI's aim is to introduce two new BSDEs, based on findings from a series of workshops, for the benefit of textiles designers. The PI will create physical textile demonstrators incorporating the two additional BSDEs, and the demonstrators will then serve as a fundamental tool for the communication, evaluation and assessment of biomimetic principles in textile contexts. The tool itself will be presented to representatives from the applied and industrial textile sectors in the form of three workshops entitled 'Biomimetic Textiles Design and Practice' (BTDP 1-3). Workshop participants will go on to investigate strategies for the application of the BSDEs within textile design processes via interactions with the demonstrators and participatory discussions, practice and theory prototyping. Workshop impact on participants' understanding of biological mechanisms and their own design practice will be assessed via pre- and post-workshop interviews and the setting of a post-workshop design brief. Benchmark criteria for analysis of design outputs will be created from the literature review of biomimetic design, circular design principles and sustainable textile design. The workshop template's evaluation, as a viable tool for disseminating biomimetic approaches to textile design, will be carried out via feedback from individual participant interviews post-workshop, and a presentation to an Advisory Group of industry, academic and policy experts, with a view to evolving a model that can be deployed to a wide range of audiences.

艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会 (Ellen MacArthur Foundation) 最近发布的一份关于“新纺织经济”（2017 年）的报告强调了时尚和纺织行业当前面临的与全球生产和消费实践相关的挑战，这些挑战对环境构成威胁且不再可持续。自 2000 年以来，全球服装产量增加了一倍多：制作随处可见的 T 恤大约使用 2720 升水；一件衣服在其一生中平均只穿四次；而 95% 的衣服有可能以某种形式回收利用。人们越来越需要在循环经济中设计和生产可持续纺织品的实用方法。为了响应这一迫切要求，拟议的研究旨在引入以实践为主导的仿生原理及其在纺织和服装领域的潜力。 PI将以她的博士研究和设计实践为基础，通过将生物学的机制和功能转移到纺织品设计过程中，开创了一种新颖的跨学科纺织品设计和构造方法。总体目的是通过结合仿生原理、纺织和材料科学，在循环设计经济中建立一种跨学科的纺织品设计和生产方法，以推进可持续的最先进（SoA）方法。初步研究发现专业设计和生物学学科之间缺乏相应的信息（Kapsali，PhD 2009）。因此，PI 将利用 Naleway 等人首创的已知框架来解决这些领域之间的文化和概念障碍。 (2015) 称为“生物结构设计元素”(BSDE)。 BSDE 提供了有关各种生物材料中所呈现的机制和行为的性质（包括其韧性和强度）的简化信息，为材料科学界的复合材料的设计和开发提供信息。通过改编 Naleway 等人。模型中，PI 将专门为纺织品设计界创建一个更相关的仿生框架。原始 BSDE 系统的优点在于，它使用视觉语言而不是纯数学语言（一种创意社区可以使用的方法）来传达有关生物材料的机械和行为方面的 SoA 结构信息。 PI 的目标是根据一系列研讨会的研究结果引入两种新的 BSDE，以造福于纺织品设计师。 PI 将创建包含另外两个 BSDE 的物理纺织品演示器，然后演示器将作为纺织品环境中仿生原理的沟通、评估和评价的基本工具。该工具本身将以三个题为“仿生纺织品设计和实践”（BTDP 1-3）的研讨会的形式向应用和工业纺织品领域的代表展示。研讨会参与者将通过与演示者的互动以及参与式讨论、实践和理论原型来继续研究 BSDE 在纺织品设计过程中的应用策略。研讨会对参与者理解生物机制和他们自己的设计实践的影响将通过研讨会前后的访谈以及研讨会后设计简介的设置来评估。设计输出分析的基准标准将根据仿生设计、循环设计原则和可持续纺织品设计的文献综述创建。研讨会模板的评估作为传播纺织品设计仿生方法的可行工具，将通过研讨会后对个别参与者访谈的反馈以及向行业、学术和政策专家组成的咨询小组的演示进行评估，以期发展一个可以部署到广泛受众的模型。