A social history of the consumption of coffee in India, 19th-20th centuryNew proposed title:Drink it The Damn Way We Want: The Politics of the Consumption of Coffee in India since the 19th century

19-20世纪印度咖啡消费的社会史新提出的标题：以我们想要的方式喝它：19世纪以来印度咖啡消费的政治

• 批准号: 316688479
• 负责人: Dr. Bhaswati Bhattacharya, Ph.D.
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: Centre for Modern Indian Studies (CeMIS)
• 依托单位国家: 德国
• 项目类别: Research Grants
• 财政年份: 2016
• 资助国家: 德国
• 起止时间: 2015-12-31 至 2021-12-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gepris.dfg.de/gepris/projekt/316688479?language=en
• 关键词: social; history; consumption; coffee; India

This research will explore the trajectory of coffee as a commodity and its consumption in the domestic market in India, a subject that has not been analyzed systematically so far. It is little known that coffee has a longer history than tea in India. Yet, though a latecomer, tea is considered to be the national drink. The current project aims at sketching a long term history of the consumption of coffee since the introduction of large scale production of the commodity in India in the 1830s in order to understand where the commodity stands in the hierarchy of hot beverages, if there has been a change in the social attitude towards the commodity, who the consumers of coffee have been, and to analyze the politics of consumption in the sense what guides the choice of a particular beverage. The hypothesis guiding this research is that as a foreign exchange earner, coffee has historically been meant for the export market, the domestic market being systematically addressed for the first time in the aftermath of the Great Depression of 1929. In the post-World War II era, when new markets were opened to Indian coffee, the domestic market was relegated to the background again till the MNC run cafe chains entered the Indian market. One peculiarity of the Indian coffee market is that just as in the 1930s in the 1990s also the coffee industry addressed the urban educated Anglicized middle class. Now, when India is said to be in the grip of a coffee culture, the emphasis is still on the consumption of the commodity in public spaces. The project will study the official records of the coffee industry and records produced by coffee planters in the colonial and post-colonial period, commercials in the media and literature in regional languages and carry on anthropological research among local operators in the market and urban consumers in order to find out how consumption, private and public, has featured in the agenda of the coffee industry. Exploring the role of the state, the industry, and the agency of the actors on the supply and demand side, the current project intends to contribute to the relatively new genre of the history of consumption in South Asia, with reference to the history of the consumption of coffee in India in particular, and to the larger sociological discourse on consumption and the consumer.

这项研究将探讨咖啡作为一种商品及其在印度国内市场的消费轨迹，这一主题迄今为止尚未得到系统分析。鲜为人知的是，咖啡在印度的历史比茶还要悠久。然而，虽然后来者居多，但茶仍被认为是国饮。当前的项目旨在勾勒自 1830 年代印度大规模生产咖啡以来咖啡消费的长期历史，以便了解该商品在热饮等级中的地位（如果有）对商品的社会态度的变化、咖啡的消费者是谁，并从指导特定饮料选择的意义上分析消费政治。指导这项研究的假设是，作为一种外汇收入来源，咖啡历来都是面向出口市场的，而国内市场在 1929 年大萧条之后首次被系统地解决。时代，当印度咖啡打开新市场时，国内市场再次退居幕后，直到跨国公司经营的咖啡馆连锁店进入印度市场。印度咖啡市场的一个特点是，就像 20 世纪 30 年代和 20 世纪 90 年代一样，咖啡行业也面向受过城市教育的英国化中产阶级。现在，当据说印度处于咖啡文化的掌控之中时，重点仍然是在公共场所消费这种商品。该项目将研究咖啡产业的官方记录、殖民时期和后殖民时期咖啡种植者制作的记录、地方语言的媒体广告和文学作品，并对当地市场经营者和城市消费者进行人类学研究。为了了解私人和公共消费如何在咖啡行业的议程中占据重要地位。当前的项目探讨了国家、行业以及参与者在供需方面的作用，旨在参考南亚消费史的历史，为南亚消费史这一相对较新的类型做出贡献。尤其是印度的咖啡消费，以及关于消费和消费者的更广泛的社会学话语。