Collaborative Research: Surfzone Eddy Dynamics

合作研究：Surfzone 涡动力学

• 批准号: 2318784
• 负责人: Derek Grimes
• 金额: $ 30.72万
• 依托单位: University of North Carolina at Wilmington
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2023
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2023-09-01 至 2026-08-31
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=2318784&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Collaborative; Research; Surfzone; Eddy; Dynamics

This project will study recirculating flows at the nearshore zone where waves break, the surf zone. These flows connect the surf zone and the area seaward of this region (the inner shelf). The study will use mathematical models and already-available measurements to explore three hypotheses: a) that the recirculations can be identified from images recorded at the shore; b) that the recirculating flows can be linked to wave properties (such as the variation in their directions); and c) that these recirculations represent a non-negligible portion of the energy transferred to the inner shelf. Measurements consist of two-dimensional images, flow velocity, and water pressure variations. Artificial intelligence will help to identify the recirculations in the surf zone. The use of two-dimensional and three-dimensional mathematical models will help elucidate the importance of the three-dimensionality of the recirculations. As Broader Impacts, the study shall improve predictions of rip currents and of the exchange of properties between the surf zone and the inner shelf. Undergraduate students will visit a field site to learn about nearshore processes, to observe data collection methods, and to interact with coastal scientists. Students will then participate in mathematical modeling studies based on what they learn on the field. This project will support two MS students at UNCW, one female PhD student at WHOI, and the development of a surfzone science and safety module for a local youth educational summer program (MarineQuest).This project will study the hydrodynamics and turbulent kinetic energy associated with the generation of eddies by short-crested breaking waves at the surf zone. The study will use models, numerical and analytical, and in-hand observations to explore three hypotheses: a) that the surfzone eddies can be determined from remotely sensed images; b) that the velocity and vorticity of these eddies can be linked to the directional spread and the gradients of a rotational forcing; and c) that eddy ejections dominate the dissipation of surfzone eddy-kinetic energy. Available observations are derived from remote cameras (2D surface imagery), current meters, and pressure sensors. Machine learning will be used to identify the surfzone eddy fields. Comparison of 2D (Funwave-TVD) vs 3D (SWASH) models will determine the 3D effects associated with the eddy ejections to the inner shelf. As Broader Impacts, the study shall Improve predictions of rip currents and the exchange of properties between the surf zone and the inner shelf. Undergraduate students will visit a field site to learn about nearshore processes first hand, to observe modern data collection approaches, and to interact with coastal scientists. Students will then participate in numerical modeling studies based on what they have learned on the field. This project will support two MS students at UNCW, one female PhD student at WHOI, and the development of a surfzone science and safety module for a local youth educational summer program (MarineQuest).This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.

该项目将研究波浪破裂（冲浪区域）的近岸区域。这些流动连接冲浪区和该区域的海洋区域（内部架子）。该研究将使用数学模型和已经可用的测量值来探索三个假设：a）可以从岸上记录的图像中识别再循环； b）循环流可以与波特性相关联（例如其方向的变化）； c）这些再循环代表了传递到内架的能量的不可忽略的部分。测量值包括二维图像，流速和水压变化。人工智能将有助于确定冲浪区的再循环。使用二维和三维数学模型将有助于阐明再循环三维的重要性。随着更广泛的影响，该研究应改善RIP电流的预测以及冲浪区和内架之间的性质交换。本科生将访问一个现场地点，以了解近海过程，观察数据收集方法并与沿海科学家进行互动。然后，学生将根据他们在现场学到的知识参加数学建模研究。该项目将为UNCW的两名女士支持Whoi的一名女博士生，并为当地青年教育夏季计划（MarineQuest）开发Surfzone科学和安全模块。该项目将研究与Surf区域短块破裂波产生的流体动力学和动荡的动能。该研究将使用模型，数值和分析和手中观察来探索三个假设：a）可以从远程感知的图像中确定表面涡流； b）这些涡流的速度和涡度可以与旋转强迫的方向扩散和梯度有关； c）这种涡流弹出占主导地位的表面涡流能量的耗散。可用的观察结果来自远程摄像机（2D表面图像），电流仪表和压力传感器。机器学习将用于识别表面涡流场。 2D（Funwave-TVD）与3D（SWASH）模型的比较将确定与内架上涡流弹出相关的3D效应。随着更广泛的影响，该研究应改善RIP电流的预测以及冲浪区和内架之间的性质交换。本科生将访问一个现场地点，以第一手了解近海过程，观察现代数据收集方法，并与沿海科学家进行互动。然后，学生将根据他们在现场学到的知识参加数值建模研究。该项目将为UNCW的两名女士提供支持，一名女性博士生在WHOI的学生，以及为当地青年教育夏季计划（MarineQuest）的Surfzone科学和安全模块的开发。该奖项反映了NSF的法定任务，并被认为是值得通过基金会的知识分子优点和更广泛影响的评估来通过评估来获得支持的。