Wave Breaking Across the Inner Shelf and Nearshore Regions

波浪穿过内陆架和近岸区域

• 批准号: 1435147
• 负责人: James Kirby
• 金额: $ 36.31万
• 依托单位: University of Delaware
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2014
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2014-09-01 至 2018-08-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=1435147&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Wave; Breaking; Across; Inner; Shelf

The inner shelf region, in which the wind and wave-driven upper ocean comes in contact with, and is modified by, the bottom, represents a still poorly understood region of the ocean. The region is important as a pathway for the transport of materials between the surf zone and shelf, and represents the area where surface waves begin to play a role in the mobilization and distribution of sediments. Wave breaking in this region plays an important role in momentum transfer from atmosphere to water column and likely provides a strong control on the form and strength of mean currents which would shift as the nature of breaking events changes with depth. The project will develop a variety of modeling approaches to study wave breaking in the range of depths from deep to shallow water, building on this team's recent experience in high resolution Large Eddy Simulation of breaking events in laboratory settings, and on ongoing work in developing wave resolving and wave-averaged models for dispersive wave processes. The project will also contribute to the training of a Ph.D. student and K-12 outreach activities through laboratory visits and informational scientific talks to the public, web broadcasting of public lectures, and special events at open houses at the University of Delaware.The study will focus on a transition from the topology of deep water breaking, where a vortex ring spanning the underside of the breaking event is generated, and shallow water breaking, where the breaking event is laterally bounded by regions in which vertical vortex cores ending at the surface and bottom are generated. The transition between these two topologies will be denoted as a principal demarcation between intermediate depth and shallow water behavior. In particular, the transition region represents a shift from deeper water, with breaking making a significant contribution to horizontal vorticity generation, to shallow water, where breaking primarily contributes to predominantly vertical vorticity at length scales corresponding to breaking wave crest geometries. This effort will be organized in three main topics: (1) detailed examination of breaking of finite crest lengths in a range of relative water depths spanning from deep to shallow water, using high resolution calculations based on a combined Large Eddy Simulation and Volume of Fluid model previously verified for intermediate depth breaking in wave flume experiments, (2) development of extensions to an existing non hydrostatic, wave-resolving, shock-capturing solver for surface wave breaking to improve the representation of intermediate and deep water wave breaking, for application to larger spatial scales, and (3) development of an impulsive force model for individual breaking waves, together with a stochastic formulation for the distribution of breaking events in space and time, which spans the depth range from deep to shallow water. This last model will be implemented in a non hydrostatic, wave-averaged model for use in describing wave-driven processes in the full range of water depths from shoreline to inner shelf.

内部货架区域，其中风和波驱动的上海与底部接触并修饰，代表了海洋的一个仍然鲜为人知的区域。该区域作为冲浪区和架子之间材料运输的途径很重要，代表表面波开始在沉积物的动员和分布中发挥作用的区域。该区域中的波浪破裂在从大气到水柱的动量转移中起着重要作用，并且可能对平均电流的形式和强度有很大的控制，这些形式和强度随着破裂事件的性质随着深度的变化而变化。该项目将开发各种建模方法，以研究从深水到浅水的深度范围内破裂，这是基于该团队在实验室环境中对破坏事件的高分辨率模拟的最新经验，以及在开发波动和波浪扩散模型的持续工作中，用于分散波过程。该项目还将有助于培训博士学位。学生和K-122通过实验室访问和向公众进行的信息科学对话，公开讲座的网络广播以及在特拉华大学开放式房屋举行的特殊事件以及特殊活动。该研究将集中于从深水破裂的拓扑过渡到过渡，在该拓扑中，涡流遍布了涡流的事件，以后是闯入的事件，造成了闯入的事件，并在爆发的范围内生成了爆发事件。在表面和底部结束。这两个拓扑之间的过渡将表示为中间深度和浅水行为之间的主要分界。特别是，过渡区域代表了从更深的水的转变，破裂对水平涡度产生产生了重要贡献，转向浅水，在浅水中，破裂主要有助于在长度尺度上以对应于断裂波峰的几何形状的长度尺度上有助于垂直涡度。这项努力将在三个主要主题中组织：（1）使用基于高分辨率计算的一系列相对水深度的有限峰值的详细检查，该深度从深水到浅水，基于大量涡流模拟和先前验证的，以前验证的流体量和用于中间depth spectrients中的中间层次的浮雕，（2）现有的潮流，（2）现有的潮流，（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）浪潮，（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）（2）破裂以改善中间和深水波破裂的表示，以应用于较大的空间尺度，以及（3）开发单个断裂波的冲动力模型，以及随机公式，用于在时空中分布破裂事件的分布，从而跨越了从深水到深水。最后一个模型将在非静水压，波平均模型中实现，用于描述从海岸线到内架的整个水深度范围内的波动过程。