Breaking and Runup of Transient Long Waves

瞬态长波的破裂和上升

• 批准号: 0925711
• 负责人: Philip Liu
• 金额: $ 54.37万
• 依托单位: Cornell University
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2009
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2009-09-15 至 2015-08-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=0925711&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Breaking; Runup; Transient; Long; Waves

After the 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake and Indian Ocean tsunami, scientists and engineers have been working together to improve our understanding of tsunami hydrodynamics and to establish early tsunami warning systems and tsunami hazard mitigation programs in the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea. A promising approach to enhance tsunami data is to analyze the sediment deposits. If tsunami deposits can be correlated with water depth, flow velocity, wave characteristics and run-up heights, the dated sediment deposits will allow estimates of times and recurrence intervals of past tsunamis. In order to establish the relation between tsunami hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes on continental shelf and coastal zones, the first step is to investigate the process of wave breaking, turbulence production/dissipation, bottom stress evolution and run-up/run-down flows of transient long waves. Based on observations during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, it is evident that the leading tsunami waves consisted of several (1 -3) breaking long waves. Therefore, this project will conduct a set of comprehensive experiments in which a series of solitary waves is used as the surrogate leading tsunami waves. The principle objectives are:1. Identifying the dependence of run-up processes on the number of waves in the group, the incident wave heights, and beach slope.2. Quantifying the wave breaking processes involving single and multiple waves, primarily the turbulent energy and the bottom shear stress and associated dissipation and exploring the potential for statistically steady-state behavior.The Broader Impacts:This research is at the interface between several fields of science and engineering ? oceanography, fluid mechanics, and coastal engineering and will serve as a bridge among them. The detailed experimental data will provide the necessary information for the parameterization of wave breaking, bottom shear stress and flow turbulence in the sediment suspension and transport models. Therefore, the study will have a much broader impact on the establishment of tsunami hazard mitigation programs. The results will also provide guidance for future direction of experiments. The team will continue its long term collaborations with Prof. H. Oumeraci of the Technical University of Braunschweig, Germany and Prof. H. H. Hwang of the National Cheng Kung University, Taiwan. Certain aspects of scale effects can be investigated by repeating some of the proposed experimental conditions in the large wave flumes in their institutes. The project will train one PhD student in experimental techniques, data analysis and numerical methods so that he/she will be capable of performing model/data comparisons. The P.I. has had a good record of involving engineering undergraduate students in research and in publishing technical journal papers, and this project will provide further opportunities along those lines. The project will also support a postdoctoral researcher who will share the responsibility on supervising the graduate student working on the project and will also teach an undergraduate course.

在2004年的苏门答腊 - 安达曼地震和印度洋海啸之后，科学家和工程师一直在共同努力，以提高我们对海啸流体动力学的理解，并在印度洋和南中国海建立早期的海啸警告系统和海啸危害计划。增强海啸数据的有前途的方法是分析沉积物沉积物。如果海啸沉积物可以与水深度，流速，波浪特性和高度高度相关，那么过时的沉积物沉积物将允许估计过去海啸的时间和复发间隔。为了建立大陆架和沿海地区海啸流体动力学与沉积物传输过程之间的关系，第一步是研究波浪破裂，湍流产生/耗散，底部应力演化以及倒数/倒数/失败的过程瞬态长波。根据2004年印度洋海啸期间的观察结果，很明显，主要的海啸波由几（1-3）个断断续续的波浪组成。因此，该项目将进行一系列综合实验，其中一系列孤立的波被用作替代领先的海啸波。主要目标是：1。识别加速过程对小组中波的数量，事件波高和海滩坡度的依赖性。2。量化涉及单波和多个波的波浪破裂过程，主要是湍流能量和底部剪切应力以及相关的耗散，并探索统计上稳态行为的潜力。更广泛的影响：这项研究是在科学和科学领域的界面上工程 ？海洋学，流体力学和沿海工程，将作为其中的桥梁。详细的实验数据将提供必要的信息，以进行断裂，底部剪切应力和沉积物悬架和传输模型中流动湍流的参数化。因此，该研究将对建立海啸危害缓解计划产生更大的影响。结果还将为实验的未来方向提供指导。该团队将继续与德国布劳恩施威技术大学的H. Oumeraci教授和台湾国民郑大学的H. H. Hwang教授的H. Oumeraci教授。可以通过重复其机构中大波浪量中提出的一些实验条件来研究量表效应的某些方面。该项目将在实验技术，数据分析和数值方法中培训一名博士生，以便他/她能够进行模型/数据比较。 P.I.有良好的记录，使工程本科生参与研究和发布技术期刊论文，该项目将提供更多的机会。该项目还将支持博士后研究人员，该研究人员将分担监督该项目工作的研究生的责任，并将教授本科课程。