Development of Image-based field observation system for behavior of infragravity waves along the surf zone

开发基于图像的现场观测系统，用于沿冲浪区的次重力波行为

• 批准号: 23686070
• 负责人: TAJIMA Yoshimitsu
• 金额: $ 8.82万
• 依托单位: The University of Tokyo
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Young Scientists (A)
• 财政年份: 2011
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 2011-04-01 至 2014-03-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-23686070/
• 关键词: 高波; 海岸災害; 長周期波; 砕波; エッジ波; 画像監視; 画像観測; 波動モデル; 砕波帯; 遡上域; 非線形分散波モデル; 砕波モデル; 大規模渦; 波群

Coastal disasters due to stormy waves often locally concentrate and this feature may be partially due to existence of infragravity waves, which have longer wave period rather than wind-induced stormy waves. Due to difficulty of field observation especially around the surf zone under the stormy waves, there are nearly no quantitative data obtained for further investigation of the behaviors of such long waves around the surf zone under the stormy waves. This study successfully developed image-based monitoring system to capture such surf one hydrodynamics. The system was applied to Seisho coast and found that long waves dominantly formed partial standing waves in the alongshore directions under the stormy wave conditions and this feature reasonably explains the inundation heights observed just after the disaster when the typhoon hit the Seisho coast in 2007.

风暴潮造成的沿海灾害往往集中在局部，这一特征可能部分是由于次重力波的存在，次重力波的波浪周期比风引发的风暴潮更长。由于现场观测的难度，尤其是暴风浪下的冲浪区周围，几乎没有获得定量数据来进一步研究暴风雨下冲浪区周围的长波行为。这项研究成功开发了基于图像的监测系统来捕获这种冲浪流体动力学。该系统应用于西正海岸，发现在暴风浪条件下，长波主要在近岸方向形成部分驻波，这一特征合理地解释了2007年台风袭击西正海岸时灾后观测到的淹没高度。

项目成果

Predictions of circulating current field around a submerged breakwater induced by breaking waves and surface rollers

破碎波和表面滚轮引起的水下防波堤周围循环流场的预测

• 发表时间: 2012
• 期刊: Proceedings of Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng.
• 作者: 菅藤 亮輔;芳村圭;Yoshimitsu Tajima
• 通讯作者: Yoshimitsu Tajima

Image-based study of breaking and broken wave characteristics in front of the seawall

基于图像的海堤前破碎波特征研究

• 发表时间: 2014
• 期刊: Proceedings of International Conference on Coastal Engineering
• 作者: 羽深昭;谷山拓生;菅藤亮輔;吉川弘晃;山田幸司;高橋正宏;岡部聡;佐藤久;Weijie Liu and Yoshimitsu Tajima
• 通讯作者: Weijie Liu and Yoshimitsu Tajima

Image-based monitoring of dynamic morphology change around the Shimata river mouth facing the low energy coast

基于图像的面向低能海岸的岛田河口周边动态形态变化监测

• 发表时间: 2013
• 期刊: Proc. of Coastal Dynamics
• 作者: Akira Hafuka;Hiroki Taniyama;Koji Yamada;Masahiro Takahashi;Satoshi Okabe;Hisashi Satoh;Hisashi Satoh;田島芳満;Kei Yoshimura;Yoshimitsu Tajima
• 通讯作者: Yoshimitsu Tajima

沿岸域遡上帯における長周期波伝播特性の画像分析

海岸上升区长周期波浪传播特性图像分析

• 发表时间: 2013
• 作者: 谷山拓生;羽深昭;山田幸司;高橋正宏;岡部聡;佐藤久;K.Yoshimura;田島芳満・三上生真・長谷川貴哉
• 通讯作者: 田島芳満・三上生真・長谷川貴哉

Predictions of circulating current field arround a submerged breakwater induced by breaking waves and surface rollers

破碎波和表面滚轮引起的水下防波堤周围环流场的预测

• 发表时间: 2012
• 期刊: Proc. of Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng