TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE GROUPS IN A DIRECTIONAL SEA

定向海中波群的变换

• 批准号: 22360195
• 负责人: KIOKA Wataru
• 金额: $ 11.81万
• 依托单位: Nagoya Institute of Technology
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
• 财政年份: 2010
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 2010-04-01 至 2014-03-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-22360195/
• 关键词: 不規則波; 波群; 波の非線形干渉; 波の反射; 長周期波; 方向スペクトル; ザハロフ方程式; 極値解析; 格子ボルツマン法; 振幅変調

The purpose of this study is to determine wave group evolution by investigating the transformation of multi-directional spectra at constant depth and on a sloping beach. The transformation of wave groups can be evaluated by computing multi-directional nonlinear waves based on the third-order Zakharov equation. Initial conditions for numerical simulation were characterized by the Gaussian spectrum for several values of significant wave heights and water depths. The numerical results show that the distribution of the energy processes affects the evolution of the wave groups, and the characteristics of directional wave groups can be reproduced through the Zakharov equation model. Finally, field observation data at Akabane beach were used to demonstrate the transformation of wave groups in a real directional sea.

这项研究的目的是通过研究恒定深度和倾斜海滩上多向光谱的转化来确定波群的演变。可以通过基于三阶Zakharov方程计算多向非线性波来评估波群的转换。数值模拟的初始条件的特征是高斯光谱的明显波高和水深的几个值。数值结果表明，能量过程的分布会影响波群的演变，并且可以通过Zakharov方程模型复制方向波群的特征。最后，使用Akabane海滩上的现场观察数据来证明在真实的海洋中波群的转化。

项目成果

Transformation of Wave Groups in a Directional Sea

定向海中波群的变换

• 发表时间: 2013
• 期刊: J. JSCE, Ser.B2
• 作者: Pujianiki N.N.;Kioka W.
• 通讯作者: Kioka W.

Diffractive uncertainty toward the future estimation of return waveheight

未来返回波高估计的衍射不确定性

• 发表时间: 2011
• 作者: Kitano;T.;W.Kioka;R.Takahashi
• 通讯作者: R.Takahashi

Outlier sensitivity on the sea extremes by the temporal and climate index covariations

时间和气候指数协变对海洋极端事件的异常敏感性

• 发表时间: 2012
• 作者: Kitano;T.;W. Kioka and R. Takahashi
• 通讯作者: W. Kioka and R. Takahashi

Trend Model of Sea Extremes

极端海况趋势模型

• 发表时间: 2011
• 期刊: Proc. on Coastal Engineering
• 作者: Kitano;T.;W. Kioka and R. Takahashi
• 通讯作者: W. Kioka and R. Takahashi

Steep standing waves against a vertical wall on a sloping beach

倾斜海滩上垂直墙壁上的陡峭驻波

• 发表时间: 2011
• 作者: Kioka;W.;T.Kitano;M.Okajima;N.Miyabe
• 通讯作者: N.Miyabe