A NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE-RUN-UP AND RESULTING LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT DUE TO OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVE

波浪爬升及斜入射波引起的沿岸沉积物输送的数值模型

基本信息

批准号：
08455227
负责人：
ISOBE Masahiko
金额：
$ 4.03万
依托单位：
THE UNIVERSITY OF TOKYO
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
财政年份：
1996
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
1996 至 1997
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-08455227/
关键词：
Coast Swash zone Sedimentation Longshore sediment transport Wave

项目摘要

Swash zone dynamics is an important factor in computing longshore sediment transport rate. In the present study, a numerical model is developed to predict the onshore distribution of the longshore sediment transport rate by taking into account the moving shoreline boundary condition.Boussinesq-type equations were adopted as the governing equations that include non-linearity and dispersivity, and a breaking model was incorporated. The longshore coordinate and the time were combined into one independent variable under the assumption of a uniform water depth in the longshore direction. The offshore boundary condition included the radiation boundary condition which can absorb the outgoing waves ; the onshore boundary condition was developed to reproduce the moving shoreline in the swash zone.We applied this model to the numerical computations with obliquely incident waves to simulate wave kinetics including swash motion, and found that the model can reproduce the moving shoreline as well as wave deformation and breaking correctly.In addition to the wave field, the nearshore current field was modeled by considering the bottom friction. By incorporating the sediment transport formula proposed by Dibajnia and Watanabe (1994), the model resulted in a bi-modal distribution, with one peak around the breaking point and the other around the shoreline, which has been recognized in the laboratory experiment.As a result, a general numerical model for obliquely incident waves on the bottom topography of straight and parallel offshore contours is developed, which can reproduce non-linear wave deformation, swash motion, longshore current, and onshore distribution of the longshore sediment transport rate

SWASH区域动力学是计算长岸沉积物传输速率的重要因素。在本研究中，开发了一个数值模型来通过考虑移动的海岸线边界条件来预测长岸沉积物传输速率的陆上分布。采用BousSinesQ-type方程作为包括非线性和分散性的管理方程，并纳入了破坏模型。在长岸方向均匀的水深度的假设下，将长岸坐标和时间合并为一个自变量。离岸边界条件包括可以吸收波浪的辐射边界条件。开发了陆上边界条件以重现斜向区域中的移动海岸线。我们将该模型应用于具有倾斜的入射波的数值计算，以模拟包括sw旋运动在内的波动动力学，并发现该模型可以重现移动的海岸线，并正确地将波浪变形以及在近乎近乎杂货的场上进行底部模型。 By incorporating the sediment transport formula proposed by Dibajnia and Watanabe (1994), the model resulted in a bi-modal distribution, with one peak around the breaking point and the other around the shoreline, which has been recognized in the laboratory experiment.As a result, a general numerical model for obliquely incident waves on the bottom topography of straight and parallel offshore contours is developed, which can reproduce non-linear wave长岸沉积物传输速率的变形，弯曲运动，长岸电流和陆上分布