Breaking Wave Velocities and Shear Stress in Surf and Swash Zone

海浪和冲刷区的破碎波速度和剪切应力

• 批准号: 9407827
• 负责人: Nobuhisa Kobayashi
• 金额: $ 10.6万
• 依托单位: University of Delaware
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Continuing Grant
• 财政年份: 1994
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 1994-09-01 至 1997-08-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=9407827&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Breaking; Wave; Velocities; Shear; Stress

ABSTRACT CTS-9407827 University of Delaware P.I.: N. Kobayashi A combined modeling and experimental approach to assist in the understanding of beach erosion will be undertaken. A hydrodynamic model will be developed to predict the spatial and temporal variations of breaking wave velocities, shear stress and turbulence intensity in the surf and swash zones. Experiments will be conducted in a wave flume in which the fluid velocities in the thin bottom boundary layer on a rough bottom will be measured. Turbulence measurements in the surf zone will be used to elucidate the processes of the turbulence generation, advection, diffusion and dissipation in the surf zone as well as to calibrate and evaluate the turbulence model adopted in the numerical studies. Velocity and free surface measurements will be used to evaluate the capabilities and limitations of the developed numerical model for predicting the spatial and temporal variations of fluid velocities and shear stress under breaking regular and irregular waves.

摘要 CTS-9407827 特拉华大学 P.I.：N. Kobayashi 将采用联合建模和实验方法来帮助了解海滩侵蚀。 将开发一个水动力模型来预测海浪和冲刷区破碎波速度、剪切应力和湍流强度的空间和时间变化。 实验将在波槽中进行，测量粗糙底部的薄底部边界层中的流体速度。 海浪区湍流测量将用于阐明海浪区湍流产生、平流、扩散和消散的过程，并对数值研究中采用的湍流模型进行校准和评估。 速度和自由表面测量将用于评估所开发的数值模型的能力和局限性，该模型用于预测破碎规则和不规则波浪下流体速度和剪切应力的空间和时间变化。